Anyone got any good or bad experiences with any supplier, want to retrofit to existing aluminum windows in a 15 year old house. TIA
Jun 16, 4:34 am
Hi, give builderscrack.co.nz a go - you can post a job for free and have tradespeople chase you (for a change!). Can also get quotes and estimates without having to leave your phone or computer. Worth a try as you can also suss out reviews of tradies before engaging or contacting them.
Jun 16, 5:23 am
Metro Glass Tech - about 5 years ago now but they provided great service all the way. I'd use them again
Jun 16, 5:32 am
Another vote for Metro Glass Tech. They did my whole house last August. Great service, fantastic job, and I was pleasantly surprised at the price. Would have no hesitation recommending them. Have a couple of friends use them too and all good experiences.
Jun 16, 8:27 pm
Any condensation on the frames in frost please?
Jun 17, 6:37 am
Bradhams were amazing to work with, we had such a great experience with these guys. I highly recommend this company.
Jun 17, 7:38 am
Without a thermal break, there will generally still be condensation on the aluminium after big temperature changes or when the indoor/outdoor temps are very different.
Jun 17, 7:45 am
Our house built 1996 without the thermal break does not have condensation in any room, except for the ensuite after a shower has been used . It does have slider vent above some of the windows .
Jun 18, 4:00 am
Metrofit (same as metro glass tech? ) came and quoted something between $20-25k to retrofit double glazing units in our old wooden joinery. Those windows were not in great shape, and draughty, so we replaced all the windows with new aluminium ones. Cost about $36k (both these quotes before painting). The aluminium can get an extraordinary amount of condensation. even the bottom of the glazing units themselves can often have a bit of condensation on them. Was a real bugger. But still, it's a lot quieter, we are warmer, there are no draughts through the house. still a win. But if I did it again would definitely get thermal breaks, or maybe PVC joinery. Just wasn't sure about it this time because I have heard the resins the hold both halves of those windows together degrades over time. and I didn't want that sort of headache to deal with.
Jun 18, 5:19 am
There are weep holes along the bottom of aluminum glazing units, and it is important to keep those clean so that water can flow. Vacuum along there regularly.
Jun 18, 8:59 am
$20-25 grand for the house - wow. Anyone else had this glass installed? I'm ringing for quotes currently but didn't realise it would be so dear. How big was your house? Maybe harder to retrofit wooden windows? Ours are aluminium from 1999.
Jun 23, 2:05 am
Generally speaking, if existing aluminium windows can be left in place and only the glass needs replacing, then that's certainly going to be cheaper than what needs to be done to timber windows. Whether or not aluminium windows can be dealt with easily is largely a function of age, but also the depth of the profile, which determines whether or not they can be re-glazed with thicker, doubled glass and new beads installed. The older they are, the less likely they can be done.
With timber windows, the installers will generally have to rout the channel for the glass deeper, and possibly chisel the final bits around the corners. This is a messier, dusty and more time-consuming process.
HOWEVER, the thermal rating will be better on those double-glazed timber windows than on the aluminium ones, since older aluminium ones are very unlikely to have a thermal break. So it's a question of long-term savings.
And if the option is to remove existing windows, frames and all, then there is remedial work, generally both inside and out, that has to be done: repairs to gib/internal linings, reinstating architraves, as well as external repairs including both flashings and linings. Replacing the entire window will also likely require consent from a local building authority.
Read any quotes carefully to see what they cover and what they don't.
Apr 18, 4:24 pm
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