Linear Homes

Hi! Who would built with Linear! We are thinking of either wood or Linear. Would like to hear from people who have linear homes.
Many Thanks

sharonann1, Apr 21, 10:26 pm

depending how its installed its great. looks great as well. I am worried about it being installed with a nail gun as I worry about future problems but if diamond drilled and nailed i thing its a great product.

niknaks, Apr 21, 10:31 pm

Haven't used it (we have an older wooden home) but absolutely love the look and features of it. I am hoping to build with it in the future.

emmaj26, Apr 21, 10:59 pm

We have linea on our garage and it looks fantastic.Ours was nailed by hand as well - no nail gun whatsoever.Took longer but the results are worth it.

opencast, Apr 21, 11:15 pm

We're probably going to re-clad our formerly brick home in Linea.There's some "divided opinion" on the merits of Linea vs timber - I've heard different stories from builders and architects.One thing seems to be that there's resistance by some builders to use the product, as James Hardie seem to have the warranty on the product tied to using only their approved installers.
Linea also quite expensive in NZ - it's much cheaper in Aus.

mm12345, Apr 22, 9:24 am

Careful about re-cladding with Linea.Lots of builders who've done it once are strongly against doing it again.Not only is it a complete pain as you can't use all the usual weatherboard techniques, it is only code compliant if you use all the expensive Linea flashing and window detailing, which is hard work on an existing property.Also, since it's very thin, it really shows up any imperfections in your framing (which there are likely to be as with a brick clad house it doesn't matter much if the framing is a bit out).Wooden weatherboards are much more forgiving of this.

Personally, I also think the shallow profile makes them look too much like the nasty cheap "fake" weatherboards that were around so much in the 50s and 60s made from cement board.

So, they're ok if they're on a new house and you know from the start that they're going to be used.

tillsbury, Apr 22, 11:48 am

This is a problem (IMO) with EQC/EQR not allowing people to do this.
Branz study report from 2008 here:
http://www.branz.co.nz/cms_show_download.php!id=e4e597431e79e9ad21034d893d06d90c9a20f297
shows that on a seismic test bed, brick veneer walls failed (IIRC) at 0.23 g PGA at 1 hz, 10 cycles.Most of Chch has experienced (more) than this, several times, and longer duration, and lateral combined with vertical motion.Okay - this was only cracking on the mortar line, suggested repair re-pointing, but the test bed used steel RSJs laid on the side with concrete in the "hollow" to construct a foundation for the tests.That's very very rigid - allowing for none of the flexing or differential movement you get in a "real" foundation on an existing home . The timber frame was to latest codes - unlike most homes.This doesn't provide much hope for older homes.If it failed, then unless something is changed/improved - then it'll fail again if the same thing (eqs) happen again.If the tie-backs and mortar failed in the quakes we've had (thus blamed on poor original workmanship), that doesn't mean that it would not have failed if it was built "to code" - including the latest code.

In my opinion,brick veneer isn't a particularly suitable material for cladding in NZ.But it's cheap, fire-resistant, and relatively low maintenance.

mm12345, Apr 22, 12:12 pm

if we're a rebuild, we're plumping for linear.If that's not an option due to cost we're prepared to fund the difference between what they allow for and what it costs.Worth it to us.

jamesnmatt, Apr 22, 12:29 pm

If re-cladding brick with weatherboard (timber or linea) then there's likely to be a problem with lining up the cladding with the foundation.
Using a flashing beveled over the top of the foundation looks pretty bad (IMO).Unfortunately the best answer may be to install new framing around the entire house and fix the new cladding to that.That adds to the cost, but solves the problem of the original framing for a brick-clad house almost certainly being too uneven.Deduct from that the added cost for mucking around - which would be needed to get the original framing good enough.That's probably what some builders might underestimate, hence if they've quoted a fixed price, they're not going to be very happy if they find they've opened a can or worms.

mm12345, Apr 22, 12:31 pm

We brought up recladding in linear instead of bricks very early on (I think at our Insurance companies inspection)The answer was basically, you wont be allowed to as its so expensive

charlieb2, Apr 22, 12:31 pm

I brought it up very early too, and at that time Fletcher EQR agreed, but later changed their minds.We will gladly pay the extra cost.Our insurer agrees.
If we hadn't had brick on our home, the likely consequence of the Feb 22 quake would have been:
Our home would have been safe to live in - which would have saved 4 months temporary accommodation until it was made safe (at a cost of $25,000)
Interior damage would have been much less.
The foundations would have still moved - and piles come loose, but this repair is relatively straight-forward, and wouldn't have required "de" and "re" cladding.

I don't believe that we're going to have "low excess" EQ insurance cover for much longer in NZ.Brick will be going back on our house only over my dead body.

mm12345, Apr 22, 12:42 pm

mm12345 you raise a valid point - surely the risk to the insurer if you have a better cladding is less in future events.

We're a weatherboard home.It's stood up really well but all the boards have warped and twisted and the gaps between some are going to cause other issues with damp and rot.A rebuild with the same materials will cause the same issues should we have another spate of 6pointers.A rebuild with something like linea, will surely save money in the long run.

Like I said. we'll pay the difference, but really it's in the insurers favour to do so.

jamesnmatt, Apr 22, 12:51 pm

I just can't see that the EQC model is sustainable.Even with the increased levy, that's only going to accumulate <$200m in "reserves" per year - it still takes 20 years to get back to where EQC was "pre-quake".There will also be intense pressure (ie from the European reinsurers) for the "cap" to be increased, which means that the payout by EQC for future events may be much larger - so getting back to where we were isn't going to be good enough.
The figures cannot be made to "add up" in any way - so change is going to come, and that's going to be a very unwelcome "reality check" for every home owner in NZ.

mm12345, Apr 22, 12:59 pm

we have a linea holiday house, cost $8k more. and love it. However when our ChCh house is rebuilt we have been advised that because it is such a heavy product (,made of concrete type stuff not wood it may be too heavy for the foundations) there is an alternative to linea that is wood.tho diff from normal weatherboard,,so may look at that option. Not keen for bricks again :(

piglet36, Apr 22, 1:45 pm

Linea is a fantastic product.I have used it on the last three homes I have built and if installed well there is not a problem.I would much rather have a linea house in canterbury than brick.Although linea is more expensive I think it looks great and is versatile.

geoone, Apr 22, 1:48 pm

What about colour steel sheets with a weatherboard profile!

quane1, Apr 22, 5:42 pm

We were told the flashings were a problem and relied heavily on sealastic, not sure now, but apparently its not as much of a problem as it used to be. Might pay to check.

articferrit, Apr 22, 7:04 pm

Linea is considered light weight (apparently) which I was surprised at- given what it's made from.

As I said- ALL our bricks are having to come off and be replaced. The linea still looks perfect. The bricks- several have come off alone and fallen out from the top of the house, and with the rest the entire walls are loose- tilting out from the top. :/

100peaks, Apr 22, 7:30 pm

Builder Hubby says.a good builder will take the time to do a proper job and straighten the frame (which is not hard to do, yes it takes time).

100peaks, Apr 22, 9:45 pm

ETA ours is a 1950's house. that was relocated and recladded.

100peaks, Apr 22, 9:46 pm

problem is costs more then brick and will cost you every 5 years to repaint the stuff, We have a blue painted linea board next door,and it looks crap after four years, my mate down the street has linea and heble, its 7 years old , heble plaster still looks good but the brown linea has faded big time and is in the process of painting it as it looks faded and old. Maybe a lighter colour is the way to go but you will still have the on going cost with it , which you dont with brick.
our brick has had over ten thousand shakes and is not showing any stress cracks at all. to us its a no brainer. The no maintenance is the great thing for us. (we are in tumara park)

davelatin, Apr 22, 10:28 pm

DH has done heaps of Linea houses and the owners have not needed to repaint! Some of the houses he has come back to build extensions on and they've still looked fine with the new paint vs the old.

I am willing to pay the extra *if* EQC would let us. If not we're considering ripping it off and recladding completely from our own pocket.

100peaks, Apr 22, 10:40 pm

Modern brick houses laid properly have performed well, pre 1990's not so good.

http://www.thinkbrick.co.nz/-Clay-Brick-and-Paver-Manufacturers-earthquake.html

chip8, Apr 22, 11:02 pm

That's an advertising brochure Chip.
In our area brick was usually a complete "fail" on new and older homes.
Worst performance seemed to have been "summerhill stone" and large bricks ("90 series").Oamaru Stone cladding was also a complete fail.Some (very few) new homes and a few older homes ('60s) survived, mainly small single story dwellings.
This is what happened to it at our place: http://i39.tinypic.com/2vb0nxl.jpg
In that photo there's a small crack in the foundation.Failure was through the face of bricks, tie backs did not fail.Those are 4 1/4" fired clay bricks, newer 70mm width bricks would have weighed less - so would have probably caused less interior damage, but the cladding system would still have still failed.EQC/EQR staff (assessors / builders) tried to claim that re-bricking would have been okay.I'm presuming they said that - because that's what they're told to say.Engineers (including EQC's engineer) and architects have stated that it would be unwise to re-clad our home in brick.

mm12345, Apr 23, 7:13 am

A 15 year warranty is available on (Wattyl) paint on Linea.
You may need to "opt out" of Fletcher EQR if you want to change cladding - and yes - it will probably cost more.

mm12345, Apr 23, 7:19 am

You could put battens in to pack it out. Not sure if linear requires a cavity anyway. There is nothing wrong with timber weatherboards, they have been using them for decades. I thought timber was more expensive than linear anyway, due to it being timber.

mattnzw, Apr 23, 5:14 pm

I think you need a 20mm cavity - but stand corrected if someone knows better.
The gap is too wide to batten out in our home, as it had 4 1/4" brick, with a 40mm cavity - about 150mm between framing and edge of foundation.
Linea is more expensive than timber.With good quality finger-jointed w/b, it's probably just as good for looks and general durability, but linea should be a more stable/benign substrate to give longer paint life.

mm12345, Apr 23, 5:19 pm

No cavity is required for linea in some situations but not all. There are some really good timber options availablenow for weatherboards. Weathertex (weathertex.co.nz) is available in canterbury now. Also A-Lign and Enviro are good products. Eterpan eterside is a good fibre cement alternative to hardies and is single poured so not susceptable to delamination and around the same cost per m2. Most paints these days should last at least 10 years when proper preperation is done. Lightweight concrete products are also a good option instead of bricks.

rmbimports, Apr 23, 5:47 pm

Thanks for that - I'm saving that as a text file.
I'd actually like it if there was a brick made, lightweight, and with some option for running a flexible joint at intervals - that would solve a lot of problems for re-cladding our place.

mm12345, Apr 23, 5:54 pm

I dont know if it is possible to create a control joint in brick or not, but would doubt that it would be of much use when you look at the tie system they use to hold them to the house. I personally dont like brick for a lot of reasons and prefer the look of plaster along with the accoustic and thermal increases you get from AAC (depends a bit on system) as well as how it is fixed to the structure. Add some weather board and you can get a pretty good look.

rmbimports, Apr 23, 6:05 pm

Yeah - I really really REALLY don't like brick.Control joints (if possible) would be complicated if you wanted to preserve the look.I doubt that there'd be an "accepted" method, so it would be. expensive.
Re-cladding with alternative materials has the added complication that window reveals for brick veneer are typically (but not always) external (stone castle architectural "look") but weatherboard usually has internal reveals ("cottage" look).

mm12345, Apr 23, 6:14 pm

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